How to: Where and How to setup the tent?
- Find a flat surface, that is higher then its surroundings. In case of rain you don’t want to be in a pool, or rushing water. The sleeping bags and tent materials are very slick, if the surface is not flat you will be sliding down as you sleep.
- Make sure the surface is clean, no sharp objects. Sharp object may puncture the bottom of your tent. In any case use a footprint or a tarp to protect the bottom of your tent.
- Look up, don’t setup under a dead leaning tree, rocks, or anything that may fall on you.
- Setup away, and up wind from the camp fire. When sparks hit a tent they burn holes. Holy tents don’t stay dry.
- In windy conditions make sure to stake as you go. The tent is very light and will act like a sail, when setting up a tent on a cliff, you may loose it if not properly staked. If you are on a surface that stakes would work (a rock) use a heavy object (like the backpack) to keep the tent from flying away.
- Setup the Tent away from the food preparation/eating area. Food attracts all kind of creatures, bears, etc.. you don’t want them coming near your tent.
- Do not eat or keep food in your tent.
|
How to: What gear to bring on a trip?
| Clothing, Base Layer |
| Base layer, short sleeve |
Great for warm and hot weather by themselves. |
Base layer,
long sleeve top |
Great for cool and cold weather by themselves, or with other layers, and for sleeping. |
Base layer,
bottoms |
Great for cool and cold weather and sleeping. Choose from silkweight, lightweight, midweight, or expedition, as temps dictate. |
| Underwear |
Men/Women, avoid cotton. |
| Clothing, Insulation Layer |
| Jacket |
Fleece jacket, windshirt, soft shell jacket, depending on temps and preferences. |
| Heavy Jacket |
If you expect to encounter below freezing temperatures, consider a down jacket in addition to a light jacket. |
| Pants |
Fleece pants or soft shell pants, depending on temps and preferences. |
| Clothing, Shell Layer |
| Shell Top |
Waterproof or soft shell, depending on weather expectations and preferences. Soft shell jackets can often substitute for both insulating and shell layers. |
| Shell Pants |
Waterproof or soft shell, depending on weather expectations and preferences. Soft shell pants can often substitute for both insulating and shell layers. |
| Clothing, Other |
| Shirts |
Not really required, as you can substitute base layer tops for shirts. |
| Pants |
Can be worn alone, with base layer, or with shell pants, as needs dictate. |
| Shorts |
For warmer and hot temps. |
| Swimsuit |
If you plan to swim, or for use in public showers. |
| Footwear |
| Hiking Boots |
Should be well broken in, waterproof, and lightweight to midweight. |
| Lightweight shoes, such as running shoes, trail runners, etc. |
Use when hiking boots aren't needed, or when hiking boots get wet or lost. |
| Sandals or inexpensive flip-flops |
Use when fording water or using public showers. Must be waterproof. |
| Outer Socks |
Merino/synthetic blend, lightweight to midweight. |
| Liner Socks |
Bring only if you find liner socks helpful. |
| Gaiters |
While not mandatory, sure can make your walking more enjoyable. |
| Head Gear |
| Sun Protection |
Sun hat, ball cap, sun visor, or similar hat. |
| Rain Protection |
|
How to: What to look for when fitting boots?
I used to sell shoes so I’m giving you advice from the floor.
1) The Toe Box. Your boots need to be the correct width across the "knuckles" of your toes. If it is too tight, it leads to serious foot pains. When looking at the boot, with yr foot in it, all tied up, the width is correct if the material doesn’t appear to be pulling too tight. It should fit comfortably inside. You probably will have a harder time measuring this by sight... boots are often stiff and bulky so you'll have to rely on actual feeling.
the Toe Box also needs to be long enough. Your toes should have a solid thumbs length between your longest toe and the boot. Not everyone's big toe is their longest. Because boot sizes, as with all shoes, are not based on an international standard, you can’t just buy a size 10 and expect it to be just the same as your daily shoes sized 10. Shoe sizing is relative to the shoemaker, and often even differs within a shoe company.
The tendency is for boots to be too wide in the forefoot. People's feet slosh around... wiggle room... which leads to "hot feet" or that burning sensation under your forefoot after a long session on a hot day.
2) The heel of the boot should fit snugly. All of you with nasty heel blisters will appreciate this... heel blisters are most often caused by heels slipping. Traditionally, boot are built for guys with big feet... workmen... PTSD football players who cut down trees or build towers... many boot makers stuck with this idea. A few high end companies have realized we're not all 6'6" with masize feet. Fitting the heel of the boot to your foot often requires professional help. Unless you have experience in fitting a heel... i.e. a runner... you probably wont get it right. Ask yourself a few questions... when I walk, do I feel my heel shifting? When i walk uphill do I feel my feet sliding? Can I kick my boots and knock my feet back into the heel cup? A properly fit boot wont slide much.
Oh, you should ALWAYS try on your boots wearing the same sorts of socks you hike in normally. Bring them to the store.... a reputable sale clerk understands and expects a serious customer to arrive prepared. If you don’t know much about proper socks, ask the clerk... its a whole other ball game.
The mid foot should fit snugly. This is your support. This is the fit and feel of a shoe. Many boots seem to be built for more of those flat footed apes out there. If you have high arches you may require a shoe insert to fill the gaps. See a running shoe store for help. When you place weight on your body, its your feet which bear the brunt of it. Your arch helps soak up that pressure to some degree. Higher arches aren’t bad, but they need protection or they'll collapse. And that hurts. The foot bed should mostly contact your foot, but should not place pressure on any part of your foot. Contact is support. Pressure is an injury in the making.
The midsole is a part of the boot which cushions you. Many companies offer a variety of midsoles from extra soft to rock hard. The midsole is NOT the shoe insert. Its part of the boot. It cant be removed. So, you havbe to fit the midsole to your body, your terrain, and your preference. A hard midsole breaks down much slower than a soft one. But, a hard midsole makes your legs absorb more pounding. A soft midsole could leave you feeling more of the rocks, but if your on smooth, harder surfaces, a soft midsole protects your body by absorbing shock.
The lugs, heres the idea: the bigger the lugs (the tread) the more mud you'll be packing. If your hiking rocky, dry terrain big lugs might not be so bad. It your hiking the ANF, its a terrible thing. All that extra weight in caked on mud. In the Midwest a moderately low tread is fine. Rarely do we encounter the need for really serious lugs out here.
The upper: you have two choices full grain leather or synthetics. Suede is NOT a choice. You cannot oil suede. It ruins it. Save your suede for the city. Full grain leather offers greater protection from all sorts of biters and scratches and even repels water better. I did not say it is WATERPROOF. Nothing is waterproof. You wouldn’t want it that way. All shoes breath to some extent. Leather breaths less than synthetics. If treated well, full grain leather will last a long long long time. But it has to be oiled every time its gets wet and dried. Otherwise it cracks. Synthetics don’t crack, but they'll break down faster. They're lighter, but less water resistant. Those spray on silicone crap is exactly that. CrAP. don’t buy it. it rubs off the boot, ruins the breath ability of fabric, and its a waste of money.
ummm... am i missing anything... lets see... the toe box needs to be bigger... the heel tighter... the midfoot snug... and the uppers come in leather or synthetic... the midsole proves cushioning and the outsole (tread) should be moderate for the Midwest.
no that’s about it. Finally, some personal experi
|
How to: Things to know when Backpacking in Bear Country
Of the 3 bear species (black, brown, and polar bears) in North America, only the black bear lives in our area. Shy and secretive, the sighting of a bear is a rare treat for most backpackers. However, bears are found throughout much of the Commonwealth, and encounters between bears and people are increasing. Most encounters are people who have the opportunity to view a bear in the wild, but given the right circumstances, bears may cause a variety of problems/nuisances. However, a basic understanding of bear biology and implementing a few preventative measures will go a long way to helping make all your encounters with bears positive.
Black Bear Facts
- Black bears are typically crepuscular (active at dusk and dawn), but can be active any time of day.
- Bears may feed up to 20 hours per day, accumulating fat (energy) prior to winter denning. An adult male can gain over 100 pounds in a few weeks when acorn production is heavy.
- Female black bears have smaller home ranges (1 to 51 square miles) than males (10 to 293 square miles).
- Black bears are generally solitary, except sows caring for cubs. Adult bears may be seen together during the summer breeding period.
- Bears are omnivorous and opportunistic feeders, eating mostly plants in the spring, berries and insects in the summer, and nuts and berries in the fall. Bears have been observed capturing live animals, both wild and domestic. Carrion (dead animals) is often a part of a bear’s diet. Predation of livestock is not common, but is reported each year.
- Adult female black bears weigh between 90 to 175 pounds. Males commonly weigh between 130 to 400 pounds. The largest known wild black bear was from North Carolina and weighed 880 pounds.
- Depending on weather and food conditions, black bears enter their winter dens between October and January. Bears will not eat, drink, urinate or defecate while denning. Bears are easily aroused and may be active during warm winter days. They emerge from their dens from mid-March to early May.
- In Virginia, most bears den in large, hollow trees. Other den types include fallen trees, rock cavities, brush piles in timber cut areas, open ground nests, and man-made structures (culvert pipe).
|
How to: Distress Signal
Three of anything—whistles, shouts, flashes, etc.—is the universal distress signal. Signal with your mirror, whistle, or flashlight.
|
How to: What to Do During a Thunderstorm if in the woods
- Find an area protected by low clump of trees - never stand underneath a single large tree in the open.
- It is a myth that lightning never strikes twice in the same place. In fact, lightning will strike several times in the same place in the course of one discharge.
- Be aware of the potential for flooding in low-lying areas.
- Crouch with hands on knees.
- Avoid tall structures such as towers, tall trees, fences, telephone lines, power lines, or high ground and open spaces.
- Avoid proximity (minimum of 15 feet) to other people.
- Stay away from natural lightning rods such as golf clubs, tractors, fishing rods, bicycles, or camping equipment
- Stay away from rivers, lakes, or other bodies of water. If you are isolated in a level field or prairie and you feel your hair stand on end (which indicates that lightning is about to strike), bend forward, putting your hands on your knees. A position with feet together and crouching while removing all metal objects is recommended. Do not lie flat on the ground.
What to Do When Lightning Strikes a Person
Check for injuries. A person who has been struck by lightning does not carry an electrical charge that can shock other people. If the victim is burned, provide first aid and call emergency medical assistance immediately. Look for burns where lightning entered and exited the body. If the strike causes the victim's heart and breathing to stop, give cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) until medical professionals arrive and take over.
|
How to: The Leave No Trace Principles
During my last backpacking trip, as I contemplated burning a small food wrapper, I was reminded by two other members of our group just how inappropriate that would be. And I know it. Yet, I’d slacked off and considered it. And as I was going through some of my gear today, I found a Leave No Trace Principles card that I’d picked up at a ranger office. So, I thought it would be a good idea to post these principles – not only for beginners who really aren’t familiar with them, but for those of us who are… but sometimes forget :-)
The Leave No Trace Principles
Plan Ahead and Prepare
Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you'll visit.
Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies.
Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.
Visit in small groups.
Repackage food to minimize waste.
Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging.
|
How to: make a stablebase for a Snow Peak
The Snow Peak giga Power stove sits on a cannister of about 3-1/2" diameter and is quite tippy. My solution: a radiator band clamp and three light strips of metal, formed into an angle, held in place by the clamp. The clamp I got from HomeDepot and is of the heavier type (3 to 4 inch range), even so with the metal angles total weight comes to 1.5 oz, worth saving a spilled pot and a scald. Drill holes in the angle and you can put needle stakes through and the stove will never budge. Make sure you plan to have a tool with a screwdriver end, like a Leatherman, and you are all set. Oh yes, the angles are 2-3/4" long bent at 3/4" but could be longer,and stash neatly right in the case with the stove. The band clamp? Tighten it down and it fits snugly inside the pot.
One other tip, in general for stoves. even the best regulating stoves make it hard to simmer a dense stew without scorching, so take the lid from your pot and place it over the burner, then place your pot on the lid, that slows down and evens out the heat so a perfect simmer can take place. Replace the lid with foil to keep heat in if you like. This works with the lid that came with my Snow Peak stove and may not always work out with other stoves. The same idea could be worked out using a piece of 1/16" aluminum cut into a disc or square a few inches across but of course you have to stash it and it would add weight.
|
How to: How and Why to Blue Bag
Blue Bags:
Cat holes should be part of everyone’s relief repertoire but they’re not the be-all or end-all of BMs. They don’t work for snow camping--burying stools in the snow leaves a mess when the thaw comes. They don’t work on glaciers this, too, leaves a mess as snow and ice melt. And they’re not appropriate where there’s frequent traffic-- popular campsites lacking pit toilets will quickly become a mine field and health hazard if a hundred people a year are burying their waste.
The National Park Service regulating climbers on Mt. Rainier, Mt. Olympus, and the above-timberline domains of North Cascade National Park are now requiring climbers, mountaineers, glacier travelers, and winter campers to carry out their human waste in blue bags (unless a pit toilet can be used along their route). At first blush, it sounds repugnant to carry your byproducts in a backpack crammed with food, clothing, and sleeping bags. After you’ve done it, however, you’ll discover it beats walking barefooted through a roomful of spiders.
Using the blue bag system is very similar to using a plastic bag to pick up after your dog. After making your deposit on the ground or snow, use the inner blue bag of this two-bag system like a glove to pickup and seal your chocolate egg. Next, the blue bag is nestled in the thicker clear bag which seals with a twist closure. On multi-day trips, you may want to safeguard your pack by storing all of your blue fruits in a poke-resistant, waterproof bag like the plastic liner of a large cereal box or a waterproof stuff sacks with a roll-and-clip closure. If you’re visiting popular places where the managing agency doesn’t distribute blue bags, make your own system with different-sized Ziploc bags.
Once used, a blue bag becomes your personal property for the duration of your trip. At the aforementioned national parks, you can post your parcels in special barrels provided by the park at trip’s end. If you don’t use these barrels, don’t throw the blue bags in the trash it’s illegal to dispose of untreated human waste this way. Instead, the bags will need to be unpackaged and plopped into a pit toilet sans plastic. This is an unappetizing task, but it’s the responsible way to visit popular places without loving them to death.
Blue-bag Alternative:
Here’s another option for popular destinations, snow camps, and glacier camps where there will be no special barrel for blue-bag disposal: Use one of the newer bags with polymers and enzymes that immediately start breaking down feces and which are approved for disposal with normal trash headed for the landfill.
One such product is the WAG (Waste Alleviation Gel) Bag made by PETT. This, too, is a double-bag system made of a puncture resistant material and has enough gelling powder per bag to treat three or four bowel movements. Once you’re home, toss the sealed bag into the trash. A box of 12 bags costs about $30 from http://www.campmor.com
Source: http://justgetout.net/
|
Cached at: 9/9/2010 8:01:33 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|